The LashBase Guide to Lash Mapping
If in doubt, just stick to the map!
Now we don’t mean the type of map that gets you from A to B, we’re talking about the kind of maps found in the lash world…
Now whilst a lash map won’t help you on the roads, it will help you determine which lengths and curls will be placed in each section of the eye when lashing. Every set of lashes should provide volume and length to the natural lash, but by planning out certain lash mapping styles you are able to enhance the lashes and eyes even more. Lash Mapping is a great technique to use, as it allows you to create a look that is completely bespoke to your client.
What you’ll need for lash mapping:
So what do you need for lash mapping? This bit is the easy part, you’ll just need some eye pads and a pen! If you want an easy to use guide for mapping out your lash application, then our LashBase little stickers are perfect. They can be found here
Simply apply them on top of the eye pad and use the sections as a guide to help you create beautiful lashes. For added convenience, you can draw on the desired lengths prior to your client’s arrival and then pick the sticker you need when ready. An example of Lash Mapping is shown in the image below:
Top Tip: Ask the client to send a photo of their eyes before the treatment, this way you can look at their eye shape ahead of time.
We have also created a useful Lash Map guide that you can download and print to have with you in your lash room, we've also made it pretty enough to frame so you can display it on your Lash Room wall!
Assessing your Client’s Eye Shape
Being a lash artist, you’ll know that no two clients are the same. You will come across all different eye shapes in your lash career. You may also find that some clients will have a mixture of eye shapes. You should look at the shape and positioning to determine the eye structure. This will then help you determine the client's eye shape and recommended style. Eye shapes can include close-set, wide-set, mono-lid and downturned, and remember every client is different!
Choosing a Lash Style
Once you have decided on the eye shape of your client, you can then choose your lash style. There are lots of different lash styles, we’ve featured a few below:
Squirrel: This look is created by starting short and gradually getting longer with the halfway point being the longest length and then gradually getting shorter again. Suits: Almond, Close-set, Down-turned, Monolid, Hooded, Protruding and Round eyes.
Cat: To create the illusion of wide-set “exotic” eyes, you would use the longest lashes towards the outside edge of the lashes. Suits: Almond, Close-set, and Round eyes
Round: Applying lash extensions to follow the way in which the natural lashes sit will create fuller and longer-looking lashes whilst maintaining the natural eyelash pattern. Suits: Almond and Upturned eyes
Dolly - A doll eye lash map or 'Dolly' lash map is created by using longer lengths throughout the midsection of the lashes it will create the appearance of large, open eyes. Hence the name “Dolly”. Suits: Almond and Wide-set eyes
Kim K – The Kim K lash map is one of the most popular lash styles. The Kim K look involves placing ‘spikes’ (longer lengths) in different sections of the eye to create a wispy set. Suits: Almond and Round Eyes.
To help we’ve provided an example below:
When lashing close-set eyes, the width between the eyes is smaller than usual. So, you’ll want to stretch the lash line and elongate the eyes to make them look further apart. For close-set eyes, we would recommend using longer lengths towards the outer corners to visually open the gap. A Dolly effect should be avoided with this type of eye shape as it will only accentuate the closeness of the eyes.
Remember to use the correct lengths too! You can add an extension that is shorter than the natural lash or up to 3mm longer. You should never go more than 50% longer. If you are unsure how to tell lay your client down and hold the lash extension up against their natural lash to determine the length of their natural lashes, this will help when lash mapping as you can plan out which lengths you want to use once you have measured them against the eye.
How to map:
All you need is pads/tape, a pen and lots of lash lengths!
When you’re a beginner, try to keep the map simple, you can’t go wrong if you just follow the map! Also following the map will ensure both eyes are symmetrical.
Our go to for when I’m teaching to not over complicate is to mark both ends of the lash line, where the lashes start and where the lashes end. Then mark in the middle of them two lines, that line should be round about where the clients pupil is. Then I mark in the middle of either side of the last line. So you have 4 sections, which I find so much easier to use when explaining how to create a lash map to beginners, especially as there is A LOT to learn!
That is a very basic way as normally I do around 8/9 different sections. Depending on what lash map you are going for, mark the tape/pads with your chosen lengths. ALWAYS use short lengths in the inner corner, and I also never skip a length which gives the set a seamless look, my favorite! Unless of course you are creating a wispy masterpiece.
We hope you have found this post helpful. As always if you have any questions please don’t hesitate to get in contact with us on Instagram (@LashBase_US).