I personally think lash mapping is one of the hardest parts of lashing. Trying to pick the right style for a client is so hard when your training didn’t really educate you on different eye shapes/styles. If you’re not sure on your clients eye shape, you may pick the wrong lash map for them and they could potentially be unhappy, which you don’t want!
When I was a beginner I didn’t worry too much about the lash map, I just wanted to stick the lashes on as safely as possible, but I didn’t really realise choosing a correct map/lengths also played a part in that. If you are using lashes longer than the natural lash, you should only use lashes up to 3mm longer. If you’re not sure what length to use, I always like to measure up a lash against the natural lash. Any more than 3mm longer and you could damage the natural lash, or they’re too long and just sag when even a tiny bit outgrown!
How to map:
All you need is pads/tape, a pen and lots of lash lengths!
I think when you’re a beginner, try to keep the map simple, you can’t go wrong if you just follow the map! Also following the map will ensure both eyes are symmetrical. My go to for when I’m teaching to not over complicate is to mark both ends of the lash line, where the lashes start and where the lashes end. Then mark in the middle of them two lines, that line should be round about where the clients pupil is. Then I mark in the middle of either side of the last line. So you have 4 sections, which I find so much easier to use when explaining how to create a lash map to beginners, especially as there is A LOT to learn! That is a very basic way as normally I do around 8/9 different sections. Depending on what lash map you are going for, mark the tape/pads with your chosen lengths. ALWAYS use short lengths in the inner corner, and I also never skip a length which gives the set a seamless look, my favourite! Unless of course you are creating a wispy masterpiece.
Which style should I do?
Firstly, I do like to ask the client if they had any idea on a style they would like. Most the time they are happy for me to choose, in which case I do what style I think suits them, with lengths that aren’t mega long but still give the client some glam lashes, unless they want natural!
Don’t get me wrong, I love long lashes, but sometimes less is more! You really want the lashes to accentuate the eyes/face. Not only do I just look at the eye shape but also the face shape, as it all ties in together!
If the client does say there is a specific style they want, I will see if that is realistic for them. If not, I would just be honest and say what I think. Afterall, we are the professionals and they trust our judgement.
If you aren’t confident in eye shapes then defiantly do some research into it as it will change your lash game!
You want to determine the shape of their eyes to then pick the perfect map for them that will work best.
Almond shaped eyes are the easiest, they suit every lash style! They make the perfect client, you can do what you want!
I find deep set eyes the hardest, also because I find it so challenging to put the tape/pads on nicely! But with longer lengths, and probably a D or CC curl, you can hide the fact they are deep set, which is amazing!
My top 3 lash maps:
I feel like wispy lashes have my heart which is very strange because with my own lash extensions I like them to be very uniform and neat. But there is nothing like creating a wispy set, which can be challenging sometimes and they just look insane. I do like to use CC with a wispy set then for the actual wispy lashes I use D curl, so they really stand out! With the wispy lashes I use 2/3mm longer than the other lashes, so for example in an 11mm CC section I would use 13mm D.
Squirrel lashes are also a top contender as they are the map that suit the most eye shapes! The longest lashes are applied under the arch of the eyebrow which gives the eyes a nice light lift! I also like this map for clients who specifically want cat eye style but it wouldn’t really work with their eye shape.
And last but not least, the classic Dolly!
This map is SO cute. I love the name just as much as I love the lashes. The longest lashes are put in the middle of the eye and you can use as many different lengths as you want, they are to be placed equally both sides of the longest section. For example if you start with 8mm in the inner corners, you should lash the outer corner also with an 8mm.
With all lash maps there are so many different variations which is great as no one has the same eyes. So for one client who has cat eye, another may also have cat eye but different lengths, different curl and thickness! Its so important to tailor a set to client, and if you can’t remember what you’ve used, pop it on the back of the LashBase consultation cards!
Written by our brand ambassador Luxe Lashes By Abbie
If you found this blog post helpful, we also have several other blog posts about lash mapping so make sure to check that out for more information about how to achieve the perfect map!